Wednesday, February 14, 2007
A reminder of times past – Aussie 2
Margaret continues with her account of the Oz trip :
We eventually departed the Barradale Roadhouse and headed further north, the temperature getting progressively hotter. The red dust of the Pilbara seeped into the vehicles covering everything else. As the day progressed we all became a red, sandy colour, the dust coating our arms, legs, clothes and hair. Flies now also became a pest. A dip in the Olympic Swimming Pool at the mining town of Tom Price freshened us up, but it was too cold to stay in for long, even on such a hot day.
We went on a tour of the open-cut mine at Tom Price and then headed for Wittenoom. A drink at the town hotel was greatly appreciated. Here were some kangaroos and cockatoos in captivity. The local camping ground was right on the golf course. It was Chris’s 21st so a few celebratory drinks were consumed at the pub. The people in the town were not very friendly. The small number of buildings in the town were mostly dilapidated, with only a few stores showing signs of life.
Driving through Wittenoom Gorge we appreciated the rockpools, where we had a refreshing swim. We visited the deserted asbestos mining areas, the old township and market garden. Asbestos rocks were to be found everywhere. We had a night’s stop at the Woodstead Homestead in order to get water. At night, insects became a nuisance, attracted by the bright light from the lanterns.
The town of Marble Bar, reputed to be the hottest place in Australia, appeared to comprise just one street, a service station, general store, bar and café and hotel. The hotel bar seemed to be the most popular place. A number of the locals appeared to be slightly unusual characters. (Ed: the same could be said of some of the visitors!)
We arrived in Port Hedland late at night and decided to camp in the local car park area beside the sea, where showers were provided. We must have looked a little strange that night with 19 camping stretchers spread out. A local police patrol thought so too when they visited on their nightly round. (Ed: It was here that I realised the real reason for the police radio with the message, “Charlie, could you get fish and chips twice, and a hamburger with the lot.”)
Further on we welcomed the bitumen road again to free us from the dust. We took a side road to Broome where the beach was spectacular - a great expanse of white sand stretching for miles. Searched for a fish and chip shop and drove through Chinatown. Traveling on we noticed the boab trees and also hundreds of anthills. Cattle were now becoming more noticeable rather than sheep.
We arrived at Fitzroy Crossing at the end of their three day race meting which obviously had been celebrated rather well judging by the number of lifeless people lying under the shade of trees around the hotel.
A short drive to Geikie Gorge where we welcomed a swim and, although there were crocodiles and snakes in the water, they supposedly were harmless! We had a great washing spree and saw a slide show of the gorge put on by the local warden. Had a two hour boat trip down the gorge which enabled us to get close to the steep sides, almost vertical, fossilized remains, and different layers and colours of sanstone. Returned for billy tea and a few more swims. The swimming ceased with the sighting a 14 ft crocodile on the opposite bank.
No tents had been put up for weeks. We often did not stop until 9.00pm or later and it was light until late evening. We were always awake early in the morning soon after the sun rose as it became too hot to stay in our sheet sleeping bags and the flies were already buzzing around us.
Not much selection food wise at Halls Creek and virtually nothing in the vegetable
line, though meat was very cheap. Another welcome drink at Wyndham Hotel and we camped just outside town. A shower was improvised by pouring water from a jerry can through holes punched in a tin can. A quick soap up and rinse and people felt like
new. Wyndham was known for its meat works and here we experienced the process of the cattle being led up the gangway, shot, skinned and then the meat being cut up and packed, ready for export. It was beautiful and cool in the cutting room.
We visited the Kimberley Research Station and drove around the Ord River Dam Scheme, which at that time was yet to be flooded. The town of Katherine seemed quite civilized compared to some of our recent destinations, and after visiting the Katherine Gorge we drove on to Darwin. It was Rae’s birthday so we celebrated in a hotel, making it a cheaper night by not paying the $1.50 entrance fee, and sitting outside, where it was cooler, and dancing to the music we could hear inside.
In Darwin we went on a trip one afternoon to Mica Beach, a small island 8km offshore. A boat took us there, and then a World War II amphibious tank came down the beach into the water for us to board. We all had to lean our weight to one side or else it went round in circles. However we eventually landed safely and were treated to tea and scones, before having a swim and then watching a corroboree.
This was followed by a delicious meal of buffalo steak, chops, sausages, barramundi fish, salad and wine. Afterwards many of us attempted to play the didgeridoo. Back on the mainland again and out to the beach for the night where a police patrol on a route check found us about 4.30am. We chatted to them for a while about the trip before they left.
One day we returned to our camp just in time to rescue our washing from the fence where it was being attacked by horses, donkeys and cows. Just got ourselves settled in bed that night when it absolutely teemed with rain. People had never moved so fast from their stretchers under the stars. 9 girls settled themselves in the ladies toilets for the night, lying on long seats on lilos, or else their stretchers over the floor. We were accompanied by a croaking frog. The boys either sat in the bus, or found refuge in the men’s toilets while Graham found shelter under two picnic tables.
We departed Darwin for the drive south. It was discovered that Jean had left her purse behind at Pine Creek the previous day and evidently the police had been alerted to look out for us. Fortunately everything was intact. At Mataranka we camped close to the mineral springs and as usual there were plenty of different varieties of ants – green tree ones, red ants and small black ones. A road train driver who was at the hotel bought a round of drinks for the people who had traveled in the Land Rover that day, as they had stopped to give him water to put out a fire on his vehicle.
After a swim in the sulphur pools and a meal, drinks, playing pool and disco dancing, we decided to go crocodile shooting and piled into a boat. While two people rowed there was much hilarity as others shone torches looking for reflections from crocodile eyes. We were making far too much noise to see anything and, as people wanted a loo stop, we headed back along the murky river.
Tennant Creek was uninspiring. Upon asking if there were any trees nearby as shade for lunch we were told there was one 7 miles before Tennant Creek and some others 10 miles ahead! The days continued hot and sunny and people seemed devoid of energy. At a night’s stop at Wauchope, although the hotel had showers, we could not use them as water only came through if the wind was blowing strong enough to turn the windmill.
As we headed towards Alice Springs the clutch on “Stan” packed in, so the Land Rover towed us the 260 miles into town. We arrived late in the afternoon after the tow rope broke three times. Here we visited the Flying Doctor Service, William Ricketts sanctuary, and various sights around The Alice. One evening we went to the local drive-in, sitting out in the open, and on top of the vehicle and making tea and coffee at interval. The film was that British classic “Carry on Camping”.
While in Alice we took trips to Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Gorge, Glen Helen Gorge and Herrmannsburg Aboriginal Mission. Most of the roads were heavily corrugated. We had to go through a number of gates which, of course, always had to be opened and closed by the unlucky person who had the front passenger seat. There were a lot of wrecked cars by the roadside. The boys enjoyed wrecking a few of these a bit more by smashing in the windows. (Ed: who were these vandals?).
We spent six days in and around Alice Springs before heading out to Ayers Rock (Uluru). At the rock we started to climb from around 9.00am to avoid the heat. The lower and steeper portion had a handrail. It took about 45 minutes to climb to the top and a tremendous view over the whole area – Mt Connor, The Olgas (Kata Tjuta), with dome shaped rocks, and the flat red earth with tea tree and salt bushes, the vista broken by the winding red dirt roads. We visited caves and saw aboriginal paintings before exploring The Olgas.
We eventually departed the Barradale Roadhouse and headed further north, the temperature getting progressively hotter. The red dust of the Pilbara seeped into the vehicles covering everything else. As the day progressed we all became a red, sandy colour, the dust coating our arms, legs, clothes and hair. Flies now also became a pest. A dip in the Olympic Swimming Pool at the mining town of Tom Price freshened us up, but it was too cold to stay in for long, even on such a hot day.
We went on a tour of the open-cut mine at Tom Price and then headed for Wittenoom. A drink at the town hotel was greatly appreciated. Here were some kangaroos and cockatoos in captivity. The local camping ground was right on the golf course. It was Chris’s 21st so a few celebratory drinks were consumed at the pub. The people in the town were not very friendly. The small number of buildings in the town were mostly dilapidated, with only a few stores showing signs of life.
Driving through Wittenoom Gorge we appreciated the rockpools, where we had a refreshing swim. We visited the deserted asbestos mining areas, the old township and market garden. Asbestos rocks were to be found everywhere. We had a night’s stop at the Woodstead Homestead in order to get water. At night, insects became a nuisance, attracted by the bright light from the lanterns.
The town of Marble Bar, reputed to be the hottest place in Australia, appeared to comprise just one street, a service station, general store, bar and café and hotel. The hotel bar seemed to be the most popular place. A number of the locals appeared to be slightly unusual characters. (Ed: the same could be said of some of the visitors!)
We arrived in Port Hedland late at night and decided to camp in the local car park area beside the sea, where showers were provided. We must have looked a little strange that night with 19 camping stretchers spread out. A local police patrol thought so too when they visited on their nightly round. (Ed: It was here that I realised the real reason for the police radio with the message, “Charlie, could you get fish and chips twice, and a hamburger with the lot.”)
Further on we welcomed the bitumen road again to free us from the dust. We took a side road to Broome where the beach was spectacular - a great expanse of white sand stretching for miles. Searched for a fish and chip shop and drove through Chinatown. Traveling on we noticed the boab trees and also hundreds of anthills. Cattle were now becoming more noticeable rather than sheep.
We arrived at Fitzroy Crossing at the end of their three day race meting which obviously had been celebrated rather well judging by the number of lifeless people lying under the shade of trees around the hotel.
A short drive to Geikie Gorge where we welcomed a swim and, although there were crocodiles and snakes in the water, they supposedly were harmless! We had a great washing spree and saw a slide show of the gorge put on by the local warden. Had a two hour boat trip down the gorge which enabled us to get close to the steep sides, almost vertical, fossilized remains, and different layers and colours of sanstone. Returned for billy tea and a few more swims. The swimming ceased with the sighting a 14 ft crocodile on the opposite bank.
No tents had been put up for weeks. We often did not stop until 9.00pm or later and it was light until late evening. We were always awake early in the morning soon after the sun rose as it became too hot to stay in our sheet sleeping bags and the flies were already buzzing around us.
Not much selection food wise at Halls Creek and virtually nothing in the vegetable
line, though meat was very cheap. Another welcome drink at Wyndham Hotel and we camped just outside town. A shower was improvised by pouring water from a jerry can through holes punched in a tin can. A quick soap up and rinse and people felt like
new. Wyndham was known for its meat works and here we experienced the process of the cattle being led up the gangway, shot, skinned and then the meat being cut up and packed, ready for export. It was beautiful and cool in the cutting room.
We visited the Kimberley Research Station and drove around the Ord River Dam Scheme, which at that time was yet to be flooded. The town of Katherine seemed quite civilized compared to some of our recent destinations, and after visiting the Katherine Gorge we drove on to Darwin. It was Rae’s birthday so we celebrated in a hotel, making it a cheaper night by not paying the $1.50 entrance fee, and sitting outside, where it was cooler, and dancing to the music we could hear inside.
In Darwin we went on a trip one afternoon to Mica Beach, a small island 8km offshore. A boat took us there, and then a World War II amphibious tank came down the beach into the water for us to board. We all had to lean our weight to one side or else it went round in circles. However we eventually landed safely and were treated to tea and scones, before having a swim and then watching a corroboree.
This was followed by a delicious meal of buffalo steak, chops, sausages, barramundi fish, salad and wine. Afterwards many of us attempted to play the didgeridoo. Back on the mainland again and out to the beach for the night where a police patrol on a route check found us about 4.30am. We chatted to them for a while about the trip before they left.
One day we returned to our camp just in time to rescue our washing from the fence where it was being attacked by horses, donkeys and cows. Just got ourselves settled in bed that night when it absolutely teemed with rain. People had never moved so fast from their stretchers under the stars. 9 girls settled themselves in the ladies toilets for the night, lying on long seats on lilos, or else their stretchers over the floor. We were accompanied by a croaking frog. The boys either sat in the bus, or found refuge in the men’s toilets while Graham found shelter under two picnic tables.
We departed Darwin for the drive south. It was discovered that Jean had left her purse behind at Pine Creek the previous day and evidently the police had been alerted to look out for us. Fortunately everything was intact. At Mataranka we camped close to the mineral springs and as usual there were plenty of different varieties of ants – green tree ones, red ants and small black ones. A road train driver who was at the hotel bought a round of drinks for the people who had traveled in the Land Rover that day, as they had stopped to give him water to put out a fire on his vehicle.
After a swim in the sulphur pools and a meal, drinks, playing pool and disco dancing, we decided to go crocodile shooting and piled into a boat. While two people rowed there was much hilarity as others shone torches looking for reflections from crocodile eyes. We were making far too much noise to see anything and, as people wanted a loo stop, we headed back along the murky river.
Tennant Creek was uninspiring. Upon asking if there were any trees nearby as shade for lunch we were told there was one 7 miles before Tennant Creek and some others 10 miles ahead! The days continued hot and sunny and people seemed devoid of energy. At a night’s stop at Wauchope, although the hotel had showers, we could not use them as water only came through if the wind was blowing strong enough to turn the windmill.
As we headed towards Alice Springs the clutch on “Stan” packed in, so the Land Rover towed us the 260 miles into town. We arrived late in the afternoon after the tow rope broke three times. Here we visited the Flying Doctor Service, William Ricketts sanctuary, and various sights around The Alice. One evening we went to the local drive-in, sitting out in the open, and on top of the vehicle and making tea and coffee at interval. The film was that British classic “Carry on Camping”.
While in Alice we took trips to Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Gorge, Glen Helen Gorge and Herrmannsburg Aboriginal Mission. Most of the roads were heavily corrugated. We had to go through a number of gates which, of course, always had to be opened and closed by the unlucky person who had the front passenger seat. There were a lot of wrecked cars by the roadside. The boys enjoyed wrecking a few of these a bit more by smashing in the windows. (Ed: who were these vandals?).
We spent six days in and around Alice Springs before heading out to Ayers Rock (Uluru). At the rock we started to climb from around 9.00am to avoid the heat. The lower and steeper portion had a handrail. It took about 45 minutes to climb to the top and a tremendous view over the whole area – Mt Connor, The Olgas (Kata Tjuta), with dome shaped rocks, and the flat red earth with tea tree and salt bushes, the vista broken by the winding red dirt roads. We visited caves and saw aboriginal paintings before exploring The Olgas.
# posted by Brutus : 1:07 PM
