Saturday, February 17, 2007
A reminder of times past – Aussie 3
Margaret concludes her recollections of the Oz trip:
Traveling south we were soon in South Australia. We began to wish we hadn’t stopped for lunch as there was a strong wind blowing dust into everything and heaps of
little bush flies. People had to constantly wave things around to keep the flies off the food and we were all glad to be on our way. The red dust was visible in the sky and great clouds of it were blowing across the plain, slowing down the vehicle.
At a roadside bore we stocked up all drinking containers and had showers. At Mt Willoughby homestead we spent the night in the shearing shed, sleeping in the sheep pens.
Close to Coober Pedy we sighted many mine shafts from the digging for opals. In the town most of the houses were below ground and water had to be purchased from the Desalination plant. We walked around some of the opal working field and in one area we were allowed to scavenge (known locally as “noodling”) for opal chips. We all found some pieces, with a few people finding large pieces which they later sold in the town – one piece for $15 and two others for $45. We stayed the night in Coober Pedy and were allocated 1 gallon of water per person for showers.
After leaving Coober Pedy, we spent some three hours virtually driving round in circles before ending back at Coober Pedy where the police gave us directions which got us back on the right track.
At what was reputed to be the worlds biggest cattle station, Anna Creek, we bought a complete leg of beef for $2 which fed us all for four meals – steak for a BBQ and breakfast, boiled beef for lunch and a stew – good value! We drove out to Lake Eyre
which was shimmering in the bright sunshine and wandered out onto the salt pan. The salt was in huge flakes, almost a pink in colour and there were small amounts of water lying around. It was far too glary to stay for very long.
Upon arrival at Marree we called at the police station to check on the conditions on the Birdsville and Strezlecki tracks and were warned about non-drinkable water, losing our way, road conditions etc. The Birdsville Track was a slight disappointment. We were expecting it to be a lot rougher than it turned out to be. The road was good for most of the way, and we traveled well, seeing some abandoned ruins and an old fridge being used as a post box. We did have to stop when we discovered a hole in the fuel tank. Lunch was had while it was fixed, all of us standing around in the hot sun. The road subsequently became a little rougher when we hit a stretch of sand hills. We crossed into Queensland and reached Birdsville in
the late afternoon. The Birdsville pub was a welcome sight for some very thirsty visitors.
Traveling on to Bedourie we passed through flat, stony, sandy countryside. In the ladies toilets the water, which came from a Artesian bore, was almost too hot to use. A passing road train near Mt. Isa threw up a stone breaking the windscreen on “Stan” and covering everyone in the front seats with broken glass. The Land Rover
went ahead to find out where we could get a new windscreen fitted, but to no avail. It seemed that there was nowhere until we reached Townsville, so we hoped for no rain. At Mount Isa, the boys went down the mine, while the rest of us went on a tour of the surface workings. (Ed: We were told on a number of occasions that miners considered it to be bad luck for a woman to go down a mine.)
From Mount Isa we journeyed to Julia Creek and on to Richmond which was where Jenny’s family lived on a cattle station. In Richmond we had to split up and drink at both hotels in town to avoid any suggestion of favouritism, and then drove the 80 miles to Jenny’s parents place where we camped under some shady trees. We stayed there for four days and had a very relaxing and enjoyable time. (Ed: Some of us had
our first experience of “riding” a horse while here. It was something akin to driving a truck with square wheels…and no brakes. Not easily forgotten.) We ate excellent meals of home cooked food and consumed ham and eggs for breakfast. Drove around the property seeing the bores and dams where the cattle were gathering, as food was scarce and hay needed to be left for them. On the Saturday we drove into town to one of the hotels for a homecoming party for Jenny. We all had a great time, but it was a long drive back. The next day we all tried to have a sleep-in but it was too hot, and the galahs and cockatoos were flying amongst the trees making a cacophony of noise.
We bid our sad farewells to Jenny and traveled to Townsville to have a windscreen fitted to “Stan”. Unfortunately we could not swim in the sea here because it was the box jellyfish season so we decided, in lieu of the days planned for Townsville, we would head to Cairns. On the drive north we passed sugarcane, pineapple and banana plantations. In many cases the sugarcane was being burnt off and smoke was everywhere in the sky. It was a spectacular sight when the flames and sparks flew up into the darkness and was visible for many miles.
From Cairns we traveled around the Atherton Tableland and stopped at the “Honey House” where we saw the bees in a hive and bought a huge jar of honey. People also bought honeycomb and we mad pigs of ourselves consuming it all. It was contrasting scenery to the centre of Australia with tobacco growing, cattle grazing, vegetables and fruit in abundance and beautiful lakes, tropical flowers and jacaranda and flame trees. There were many luxury launches tied up at the Cairns jetty.
Sandflies were a constant problem and people were out of bed early, eager to be on their way, as we were all constantly scratching ourselves. We caught a launch out to Green Island, and went out on a glass bottomed boat tour of the reef. Many different types of coral, fish, sea anemones, clams, and brightly coloured fish.
We made a brief stop at Townsville to stock up on food. Our sandfly bites became so itchy and people could not stop scratching so the boys tied our hands behind our backs. Our money was running low so no-one ventured out to the islands east of Proserpine.
Some lazy days were spent at Caloundra by the beach, camping on a vacant block of land. The local Health Inspector moved us on saying there were not enough facilities, so we moved to the caravan park. We amused ourselves one night by setting off some distress signals and flares to celebrate Guy Fawkes Night. Lou and Peter had carried them in the Land Rover for their journey across the Sahara Desert. We then set off into town to meet Ned, (Ned had been on the early part of the trip in Europe) who had come up from Brisbane. From here we went to the Nambour Rodeo and watched the bareback or bronk riding, saddle riding, roping, bull-dogging and bull riding.
At Brisbane we camped in the area under Ned’s house. While here it was Butch’s 21st birthday so we had a few celebrations and went out for a few more celebrations.
(Ed: I seem to recall driving to a high point outside Brisbane, where there was a television transmitting station, and ending up on the local television news that night.)
It was soon time to travel down to Sydney where we stayed at Noels parents house, being put up in the garage and a shed. We all explored the sights of Sydney and
drove around the beach areas, out to The Gap, walked over part of Sydney Harbour Bridge, visited the Opera House and rode on the ferries.
From Sydney we headed to Katoomba in the Blue Mountains, then on to Goulburn passing through beautiful pastureland. The days were now much cooler and we often had to put up the tents at night. Shortly after Goulburn, where the highway divides, three of our number, Brutus, Lou and Butch, fare welled us to hitch to Melbourne due to a
shortage of funds. We continued to Canberra to visit the sights then stayed on a farm belonging to a friend of Grahams, staying in the shelter of a hut near the house.
We drove to Cooma, at the beginning of the Snowy Mountains Hydro Scheme, and it became colder and colder. Just before reaching Jindabyne the clutch on “Stan” went for the third time, so the Land Rover towed us to a safe place by the roadside, where after a couple of hours, with the new clutch in place, we were on our way a gain.
Camp was very cold that night. We lit a fire for warmth but the water was freezing and the night pitch black. The wind came up strongly, the ropes blew off the big tent and people were running around at 3.30am using torches to help find ropes to hold the tent down. We tried to start “Stan” to use the headlights but had no luck. Finally made make-shift guy ropes and were able to move “Stan” into a position to shield the tent as gusts of wind became stronger and one of the small tents by now was torn. We had just about got the vehicle into position when a stronger gust of wind came and completely lifted up the big tent with Sarita in it!
The tent took off as the guy ropes broke, poles were thrown around, one breaking a window in the land rover, while people’s belongings and cooking equipment went flying around the area. There was a scramble for everything and then we packed all we could away. We finally got Stan started and the vehicle circled so we could use the light from the headlights to pick up any stray items. We then relit the fire, had some coffee and waited until it got light enough to see further afield and pick up any other scattered items. We left the area at 6.00am heading for Thredbo, with snow on the mountains and sleet falling, later turning to snow while we had breakfast.
We could not go up the chair lifts at Thredbo due to the strong wind but enjoyed a beautiful cup of hot coffee inside the heated chalet before heading to the Victorian border. We could not use the tents any more as they required repairs so camped the next night in the shelter of a shed beside a football field at Corowa, and paid 20 cents for hot showers at the hotel over the road.
Traveling through Deniliquin and onto Mildura, we bought another sheep for $2 and went through the usual procedures of cutting it all up. We crossed the Murray River into Mildura, visiting the Mildara Winery and a fruit farm, and on to Wentworth at the junction of the Darling and Murray Rivers. Crossing into South Australia, we visited a number of wineries in the Barossa Valley.
In Adelaide we stayed in Hoppy’s garage and in the flat of a friend of hers, just up the road. We spent some time around the city and had a few relaxing days before heading on the last leg of our trip towards Melbourne.
At Keith we went out to the property where Graham had worked and then stayed the night in the local Scout Hall. We stopped briefly in the Grampians then drove on to a farm nearby sleeping in an old shed attached to the farmhouse. It was a bit dirty and a few possums made their presence felt about 2.00am running around and causing quite a commotion. In the morning we watched the shearers at work and then
drove to Ballarat for a look around the Eureka Stockade and Sovereign Hill.
On reaching Melbourne it was guesswork to get us through the city streets and down to the suburb of Aspendale on Port Phillip Bay, the home of Graham, where we finally arrived at about 4.30pm. The end of the trip had now arrived and a huge buffet
dinner was provided for us by Graham’s mother. A photographer and reporter from “The Sun” attended to take photos and notes, and our final goodbyes or ‘au revoirs’ were said to each other. It was 30th November, 1971. We had all been overseas for varying lengths of time, but had together shared a wealth of experiences on a trip never to be forgotten.
Traveling south we were soon in South Australia. We began to wish we hadn’t stopped for lunch as there was a strong wind blowing dust into everything and heaps of
little bush flies. People had to constantly wave things around to keep the flies off the food and we were all glad to be on our way. The red dust was visible in the sky and great clouds of it were blowing across the plain, slowing down the vehicle.
At a roadside bore we stocked up all drinking containers and had showers. At Mt Willoughby homestead we spent the night in the shearing shed, sleeping in the sheep pens.
Close to Coober Pedy we sighted many mine shafts from the digging for opals. In the town most of the houses were below ground and water had to be purchased from the Desalination plant. We walked around some of the opal working field and in one area we were allowed to scavenge (known locally as “noodling”) for opal chips. We all found some pieces, with a few people finding large pieces which they later sold in the town – one piece for $15 and two others for $45. We stayed the night in Coober Pedy and were allocated 1 gallon of water per person for showers.
After leaving Coober Pedy, we spent some three hours virtually driving round in circles before ending back at Coober Pedy where the police gave us directions which got us back on the right track.
At what was reputed to be the worlds biggest cattle station, Anna Creek, we bought a complete leg of beef for $2 which fed us all for four meals – steak for a BBQ and breakfast, boiled beef for lunch and a stew – good value! We drove out to Lake Eyre
which was shimmering in the bright sunshine and wandered out onto the salt pan. The salt was in huge flakes, almost a pink in colour and there were small amounts of water lying around. It was far too glary to stay for very long.
Upon arrival at Marree we called at the police station to check on the conditions on the Birdsville and Strezlecki tracks and were warned about non-drinkable water, losing our way, road conditions etc. The Birdsville Track was a slight disappointment. We were expecting it to be a lot rougher than it turned out to be. The road was good for most of the way, and we traveled well, seeing some abandoned ruins and an old fridge being used as a post box. We did have to stop when we discovered a hole in the fuel tank. Lunch was had while it was fixed, all of us standing around in the hot sun. The road subsequently became a little rougher when we hit a stretch of sand hills. We crossed into Queensland and reached Birdsville in
the late afternoon. The Birdsville pub was a welcome sight for some very thirsty visitors.
Traveling on to Bedourie we passed through flat, stony, sandy countryside. In the ladies toilets the water, which came from a Artesian bore, was almost too hot to use. A passing road train near Mt. Isa threw up a stone breaking the windscreen on “Stan” and covering everyone in the front seats with broken glass. The Land Rover
went ahead to find out where we could get a new windscreen fitted, but to no avail. It seemed that there was nowhere until we reached Townsville, so we hoped for no rain. At Mount Isa, the boys went down the mine, while the rest of us went on a tour of the surface workings. (Ed: We were told on a number of occasions that miners considered it to be bad luck for a woman to go down a mine.)
From Mount Isa we journeyed to Julia Creek and on to Richmond which was where Jenny’s family lived on a cattle station. In Richmond we had to split up and drink at both hotels in town to avoid any suggestion of favouritism, and then drove the 80 miles to Jenny’s parents place where we camped under some shady trees. We stayed there for four days and had a very relaxing and enjoyable time. (Ed: Some of us had
our first experience of “riding” a horse while here. It was something akin to driving a truck with square wheels…and no brakes. Not easily forgotten.) We ate excellent meals of home cooked food and consumed ham and eggs for breakfast. Drove around the property seeing the bores and dams where the cattle were gathering, as food was scarce and hay needed to be left for them. On the Saturday we drove into town to one of the hotels for a homecoming party for Jenny. We all had a great time, but it was a long drive back. The next day we all tried to have a sleep-in but it was too hot, and the galahs and cockatoos were flying amongst the trees making a cacophony of noise.
We bid our sad farewells to Jenny and traveled to Townsville to have a windscreen fitted to “Stan”. Unfortunately we could not swim in the sea here because it was the box jellyfish season so we decided, in lieu of the days planned for Townsville, we would head to Cairns. On the drive north we passed sugarcane, pineapple and banana plantations. In many cases the sugarcane was being burnt off and smoke was everywhere in the sky. It was a spectacular sight when the flames and sparks flew up into the darkness and was visible for many miles.
From Cairns we traveled around the Atherton Tableland and stopped at the “Honey House” where we saw the bees in a hive and bought a huge jar of honey. People also bought honeycomb and we mad pigs of ourselves consuming it all. It was contrasting scenery to the centre of Australia with tobacco growing, cattle grazing, vegetables and fruit in abundance and beautiful lakes, tropical flowers and jacaranda and flame trees. There were many luxury launches tied up at the Cairns jetty.
Sandflies were a constant problem and people were out of bed early, eager to be on their way, as we were all constantly scratching ourselves. We caught a launch out to Green Island, and went out on a glass bottomed boat tour of the reef. Many different types of coral, fish, sea anemones, clams, and brightly coloured fish.
We made a brief stop at Townsville to stock up on food. Our sandfly bites became so itchy and people could not stop scratching so the boys tied our hands behind our backs. Our money was running low so no-one ventured out to the islands east of Proserpine.
Some lazy days were spent at Caloundra by the beach, camping on a vacant block of land. The local Health Inspector moved us on saying there were not enough facilities, so we moved to the caravan park. We amused ourselves one night by setting off some distress signals and flares to celebrate Guy Fawkes Night. Lou and Peter had carried them in the Land Rover for their journey across the Sahara Desert. We then set off into town to meet Ned, (Ned had been on the early part of the trip in Europe) who had come up from Brisbane. From here we went to the Nambour Rodeo and watched the bareback or bronk riding, saddle riding, roping, bull-dogging and bull riding.
At Brisbane we camped in the area under Ned’s house. While here it was Butch’s 21st birthday so we had a few celebrations and went out for a few more celebrations.
(Ed: I seem to recall driving to a high point outside Brisbane, where there was a television transmitting station, and ending up on the local television news that night.)
It was soon time to travel down to Sydney where we stayed at Noels parents house, being put up in the garage and a shed. We all explored the sights of Sydney and
drove around the beach areas, out to The Gap, walked over part of Sydney Harbour Bridge, visited the Opera House and rode on the ferries.
From Sydney we headed to Katoomba in the Blue Mountains, then on to Goulburn passing through beautiful pastureland. The days were now much cooler and we often had to put up the tents at night. Shortly after Goulburn, where the highway divides, three of our number, Brutus, Lou and Butch, fare welled us to hitch to Melbourne due to a
shortage of funds. We continued to Canberra to visit the sights then stayed on a farm belonging to a friend of Grahams, staying in the shelter of a hut near the house.
We drove to Cooma, at the beginning of the Snowy Mountains Hydro Scheme, and it became colder and colder. Just before reaching Jindabyne the clutch on “Stan” went for the third time, so the Land Rover towed us to a safe place by the roadside, where after a couple of hours, with the new clutch in place, we were on our way a gain.
Camp was very cold that night. We lit a fire for warmth but the water was freezing and the night pitch black. The wind came up strongly, the ropes blew off the big tent and people were running around at 3.30am using torches to help find ropes to hold the tent down. We tried to start “Stan” to use the headlights but had no luck. Finally made make-shift guy ropes and were able to move “Stan” into a position to shield the tent as gusts of wind became stronger and one of the small tents by now was torn. We had just about got the vehicle into position when a stronger gust of wind came and completely lifted up the big tent with Sarita in it!
The tent took off as the guy ropes broke, poles were thrown around, one breaking a window in the land rover, while people’s belongings and cooking equipment went flying around the area. There was a scramble for everything and then we packed all we could away. We finally got Stan started and the vehicle circled so we could use the light from the headlights to pick up any stray items. We then relit the fire, had some coffee and waited until it got light enough to see further afield and pick up any other scattered items. We left the area at 6.00am heading for Thredbo, with snow on the mountains and sleet falling, later turning to snow while we had breakfast.
We could not go up the chair lifts at Thredbo due to the strong wind but enjoyed a beautiful cup of hot coffee inside the heated chalet before heading to the Victorian border. We could not use the tents any more as they required repairs so camped the next night in the shelter of a shed beside a football field at Corowa, and paid 20 cents for hot showers at the hotel over the road.
Traveling through Deniliquin and onto Mildura, we bought another sheep for $2 and went through the usual procedures of cutting it all up. We crossed the Murray River into Mildura, visiting the Mildara Winery and a fruit farm, and on to Wentworth at the junction of the Darling and Murray Rivers. Crossing into South Australia, we visited a number of wineries in the Barossa Valley.
In Adelaide we stayed in Hoppy’s garage and in the flat of a friend of hers, just up the road. We spent some time around the city and had a few relaxing days before heading on the last leg of our trip towards Melbourne.
At Keith we went out to the property where Graham had worked and then stayed the night in the local Scout Hall. We stopped briefly in the Grampians then drove on to a farm nearby sleeping in an old shed attached to the farmhouse. It was a bit dirty and a few possums made their presence felt about 2.00am running around and causing quite a commotion. In the morning we watched the shearers at work and then
drove to Ballarat for a look around the Eureka Stockade and Sovereign Hill.
On reaching Melbourne it was guesswork to get us through the city streets and down to the suburb of Aspendale on Port Phillip Bay, the home of Graham, where we finally arrived at about 4.30pm. The end of the trip had now arrived and a huge buffet
dinner was provided for us by Graham’s mother. A photographer and reporter from “The Sun” attended to take photos and notes, and our final goodbyes or ‘au revoirs’ were said to each other. It was 30th November, 1971. We had all been overseas for varying lengths of time, but had together shared a wealth of experiences on a trip never to be forgotten.
Wednesday, February 14, 2007
A reminder of times past – Aussie 2
Margaret continues with her account of the Oz trip :
We eventually departed the Barradale Roadhouse and headed further north, the temperature getting progressively hotter. The red dust of the Pilbara seeped into the vehicles covering everything else. As the day progressed we all became a red, sandy colour, the dust coating our arms, legs, clothes and hair. Flies now also became a pest. A dip in the Olympic Swimming Pool at the mining town of Tom Price freshened us up, but it was too cold to stay in for long, even on such a hot day.
We went on a tour of the open-cut mine at Tom Price and then headed for Wittenoom. A drink at the town hotel was greatly appreciated. Here were some kangaroos and cockatoos in captivity. The local camping ground was right on the golf course. It was Chris’s 21st so a few celebratory drinks were consumed at the pub. The people in the town were not very friendly. The small number of buildings in the town were mostly dilapidated, with only a few stores showing signs of life.
Driving through Wittenoom Gorge we appreciated the rockpools, where we had a refreshing swim. We visited the deserted asbestos mining areas, the old township and market garden. Asbestos rocks were to be found everywhere. We had a night’s stop at the Woodstead Homestead in order to get water. At night, insects became a nuisance, attracted by the bright light from the lanterns.
The town of Marble Bar, reputed to be the hottest place in Australia, appeared to comprise just one street, a service station, general store, bar and café and hotel. The hotel bar seemed to be the most popular place. A number of the locals appeared to be slightly unusual characters. (Ed: the same could be said of some of the visitors!)
We arrived in Port Hedland late at night and decided to camp in the local car park area beside the sea, where showers were provided. We must have looked a little strange that night with 19 camping stretchers spread out. A local police patrol thought so too when they visited on their nightly round. (Ed: It was here that I realised the real reason for the police radio with the message, “Charlie, could you get fish and chips twice, and a hamburger with the lot.”)
Further on we welcomed the bitumen road again to free us from the dust. We took a side road to Broome where the beach was spectacular - a great expanse of white sand stretching for miles. Searched for a fish and chip shop and drove through Chinatown. Traveling on we noticed the boab trees and also hundreds of anthills. Cattle were now becoming more noticeable rather than sheep.
We arrived at Fitzroy Crossing at the end of their three day race meting which obviously had been celebrated rather well judging by the number of lifeless people lying under the shade of trees around the hotel.
A short drive to Geikie Gorge where we welcomed a swim and, although there were crocodiles and snakes in the water, they supposedly were harmless! We had a great washing spree and saw a slide show of the gorge put on by the local warden. Had a two hour boat trip down the gorge which enabled us to get close to the steep sides, almost vertical, fossilized remains, and different layers and colours of sanstone. Returned for billy tea and a few more swims. The swimming ceased with the sighting a 14 ft crocodile on the opposite bank.
No tents had been put up for weeks. We often did not stop until 9.00pm or later and it was light until late evening. We were always awake early in the morning soon after the sun rose as it became too hot to stay in our sheet sleeping bags and the flies were already buzzing around us.
Not much selection food wise at Halls Creek and virtually nothing in the vegetable
line, though meat was very cheap. Another welcome drink at Wyndham Hotel and we camped just outside town. A shower was improvised by pouring water from a jerry can through holes punched in a tin can. A quick soap up and rinse and people felt like
new. Wyndham was known for its meat works and here we experienced the process of the cattle being led up the gangway, shot, skinned and then the meat being cut up and packed, ready for export. It was beautiful and cool in the cutting room.
We visited the Kimberley Research Station and drove around the Ord River Dam Scheme, which at that time was yet to be flooded. The town of Katherine seemed quite civilized compared to some of our recent destinations, and after visiting the Katherine Gorge we drove on to Darwin. It was Rae’s birthday so we celebrated in a hotel, making it a cheaper night by not paying the $1.50 entrance fee, and sitting outside, where it was cooler, and dancing to the music we could hear inside.
In Darwin we went on a trip one afternoon to Mica Beach, a small island 8km offshore. A boat took us there, and then a World War II amphibious tank came down the beach into the water for us to board. We all had to lean our weight to one side or else it went round in circles. However we eventually landed safely and were treated to tea and scones, before having a swim and then watching a corroboree.
This was followed by a delicious meal of buffalo steak, chops, sausages, barramundi fish, salad and wine. Afterwards many of us attempted to play the didgeridoo. Back on the mainland again and out to the beach for the night where a police patrol on a route check found us about 4.30am. We chatted to them for a while about the trip before they left.
One day we returned to our camp just in time to rescue our washing from the fence where it was being attacked by horses, donkeys and cows. Just got ourselves settled in bed that night when it absolutely teemed with rain. People had never moved so fast from their stretchers under the stars. 9 girls settled themselves in the ladies toilets for the night, lying on long seats on lilos, or else their stretchers over the floor. We were accompanied by a croaking frog. The boys either sat in the bus, or found refuge in the men’s toilets while Graham found shelter under two picnic tables.
We departed Darwin for the drive south. It was discovered that Jean had left her purse behind at Pine Creek the previous day and evidently the police had been alerted to look out for us. Fortunately everything was intact. At Mataranka we camped close to the mineral springs and as usual there were plenty of different varieties of ants – green tree ones, red ants and small black ones. A road train driver who was at the hotel bought a round of drinks for the people who had traveled in the Land Rover that day, as they had stopped to give him water to put out a fire on his vehicle.
After a swim in the sulphur pools and a meal, drinks, playing pool and disco dancing, we decided to go crocodile shooting and piled into a boat. While two people rowed there was much hilarity as others shone torches looking for reflections from crocodile eyes. We were making far too much noise to see anything and, as people wanted a loo stop, we headed back along the murky river.
Tennant Creek was uninspiring. Upon asking if there were any trees nearby as shade for lunch we were told there was one 7 miles before Tennant Creek and some others 10 miles ahead! The days continued hot and sunny and people seemed devoid of energy. At a night’s stop at Wauchope, although the hotel had showers, we could not use them as water only came through if the wind was blowing strong enough to turn the windmill.
As we headed towards Alice Springs the clutch on “Stan” packed in, so the Land Rover towed us the 260 miles into town. We arrived late in the afternoon after the tow rope broke three times. Here we visited the Flying Doctor Service, William Ricketts sanctuary, and various sights around The Alice. One evening we went to the local drive-in, sitting out in the open, and on top of the vehicle and making tea and coffee at interval. The film was that British classic “Carry on Camping”.
While in Alice we took trips to Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Gorge, Glen Helen Gorge and Herrmannsburg Aboriginal Mission. Most of the roads were heavily corrugated. We had to go through a number of gates which, of course, always had to be opened and closed by the unlucky person who had the front passenger seat. There were a lot of wrecked cars by the roadside. The boys enjoyed wrecking a few of these a bit more by smashing in the windows. (Ed: who were these vandals?).
We spent six days in and around Alice Springs before heading out to Ayers Rock (Uluru). At the rock we started to climb from around 9.00am to avoid the heat. The lower and steeper portion had a handrail. It took about 45 minutes to climb to the top and a tremendous view over the whole area – Mt Connor, The Olgas (Kata Tjuta), with dome shaped rocks, and the flat red earth with tea tree and salt bushes, the vista broken by the winding red dirt roads. We visited caves and saw aboriginal paintings before exploring The Olgas.
We eventually departed the Barradale Roadhouse and headed further north, the temperature getting progressively hotter. The red dust of the Pilbara seeped into the vehicles covering everything else. As the day progressed we all became a red, sandy colour, the dust coating our arms, legs, clothes and hair. Flies now also became a pest. A dip in the Olympic Swimming Pool at the mining town of Tom Price freshened us up, but it was too cold to stay in for long, even on such a hot day.
We went on a tour of the open-cut mine at Tom Price and then headed for Wittenoom. A drink at the town hotel was greatly appreciated. Here were some kangaroos and cockatoos in captivity. The local camping ground was right on the golf course. It was Chris’s 21st so a few celebratory drinks were consumed at the pub. The people in the town were not very friendly. The small number of buildings in the town were mostly dilapidated, with only a few stores showing signs of life.
Driving through Wittenoom Gorge we appreciated the rockpools, where we had a refreshing swim. We visited the deserted asbestos mining areas, the old township and market garden. Asbestos rocks were to be found everywhere. We had a night’s stop at the Woodstead Homestead in order to get water. At night, insects became a nuisance, attracted by the bright light from the lanterns.
The town of Marble Bar, reputed to be the hottest place in Australia, appeared to comprise just one street, a service station, general store, bar and café and hotel. The hotel bar seemed to be the most popular place. A number of the locals appeared to be slightly unusual characters. (Ed: the same could be said of some of the visitors!)
We arrived in Port Hedland late at night and decided to camp in the local car park area beside the sea, where showers were provided. We must have looked a little strange that night with 19 camping stretchers spread out. A local police patrol thought so too when they visited on their nightly round. (Ed: It was here that I realised the real reason for the police radio with the message, “Charlie, could you get fish and chips twice, and a hamburger with the lot.”)
Further on we welcomed the bitumen road again to free us from the dust. We took a side road to Broome where the beach was spectacular - a great expanse of white sand stretching for miles. Searched for a fish and chip shop and drove through Chinatown. Traveling on we noticed the boab trees and also hundreds of anthills. Cattle were now becoming more noticeable rather than sheep.
We arrived at Fitzroy Crossing at the end of their three day race meting which obviously had been celebrated rather well judging by the number of lifeless people lying under the shade of trees around the hotel.
A short drive to Geikie Gorge where we welcomed a swim and, although there were crocodiles and snakes in the water, they supposedly were harmless! We had a great washing spree and saw a slide show of the gorge put on by the local warden. Had a two hour boat trip down the gorge which enabled us to get close to the steep sides, almost vertical, fossilized remains, and different layers and colours of sanstone. Returned for billy tea and a few more swims. The swimming ceased with the sighting a 14 ft crocodile on the opposite bank.
No tents had been put up for weeks. We often did not stop until 9.00pm or later and it was light until late evening. We were always awake early in the morning soon after the sun rose as it became too hot to stay in our sheet sleeping bags and the flies were already buzzing around us.
Not much selection food wise at Halls Creek and virtually nothing in the vegetable
line, though meat was very cheap. Another welcome drink at Wyndham Hotel and we camped just outside town. A shower was improvised by pouring water from a jerry can through holes punched in a tin can. A quick soap up and rinse and people felt like
new. Wyndham was known for its meat works and here we experienced the process of the cattle being led up the gangway, shot, skinned and then the meat being cut up and packed, ready for export. It was beautiful and cool in the cutting room.
We visited the Kimberley Research Station and drove around the Ord River Dam Scheme, which at that time was yet to be flooded. The town of Katherine seemed quite civilized compared to some of our recent destinations, and after visiting the Katherine Gorge we drove on to Darwin. It was Rae’s birthday so we celebrated in a hotel, making it a cheaper night by not paying the $1.50 entrance fee, and sitting outside, where it was cooler, and dancing to the music we could hear inside.
In Darwin we went on a trip one afternoon to Mica Beach, a small island 8km offshore. A boat took us there, and then a World War II amphibious tank came down the beach into the water for us to board. We all had to lean our weight to one side or else it went round in circles. However we eventually landed safely and were treated to tea and scones, before having a swim and then watching a corroboree.
This was followed by a delicious meal of buffalo steak, chops, sausages, barramundi fish, salad and wine. Afterwards many of us attempted to play the didgeridoo. Back on the mainland again and out to the beach for the night where a police patrol on a route check found us about 4.30am. We chatted to them for a while about the trip before they left.
One day we returned to our camp just in time to rescue our washing from the fence where it was being attacked by horses, donkeys and cows. Just got ourselves settled in bed that night when it absolutely teemed with rain. People had never moved so fast from their stretchers under the stars. 9 girls settled themselves in the ladies toilets for the night, lying on long seats on lilos, or else their stretchers over the floor. We were accompanied by a croaking frog. The boys either sat in the bus, or found refuge in the men’s toilets while Graham found shelter under two picnic tables.
We departed Darwin for the drive south. It was discovered that Jean had left her purse behind at Pine Creek the previous day and evidently the police had been alerted to look out for us. Fortunately everything was intact. At Mataranka we camped close to the mineral springs and as usual there were plenty of different varieties of ants – green tree ones, red ants and small black ones. A road train driver who was at the hotel bought a round of drinks for the people who had traveled in the Land Rover that day, as they had stopped to give him water to put out a fire on his vehicle.
After a swim in the sulphur pools and a meal, drinks, playing pool and disco dancing, we decided to go crocodile shooting and piled into a boat. While two people rowed there was much hilarity as others shone torches looking for reflections from crocodile eyes. We were making far too much noise to see anything and, as people wanted a loo stop, we headed back along the murky river.
Tennant Creek was uninspiring. Upon asking if there were any trees nearby as shade for lunch we were told there was one 7 miles before Tennant Creek and some others 10 miles ahead! The days continued hot and sunny and people seemed devoid of energy. At a night’s stop at Wauchope, although the hotel had showers, we could not use them as water only came through if the wind was blowing strong enough to turn the windmill.
As we headed towards Alice Springs the clutch on “Stan” packed in, so the Land Rover towed us the 260 miles into town. We arrived late in the afternoon after the tow rope broke three times. Here we visited the Flying Doctor Service, William Ricketts sanctuary, and various sights around The Alice. One evening we went to the local drive-in, sitting out in the open, and on top of the vehicle and making tea and coffee at interval. The film was that British classic “Carry on Camping”.
While in Alice we took trips to Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Gorge, Glen Helen Gorge and Herrmannsburg Aboriginal Mission. Most of the roads were heavily corrugated. We had to go through a number of gates which, of course, always had to be opened and closed by the unlucky person who had the front passenger seat. There were a lot of wrecked cars by the roadside. The boys enjoyed wrecking a few of these a bit more by smashing in the windows. (Ed: who were these vandals?).
We spent six days in and around Alice Springs before heading out to Ayers Rock (Uluru). At the rock we started to climb from around 9.00am to avoid the heat. The lower and steeper portion had a handrail. It took about 45 minutes to climb to the top and a tremendous view over the whole area – Mt Connor, The Olgas (Kata Tjuta), with dome shaped rocks, and the flat red earth with tea tree and salt bushes, the vista broken by the winding red dirt roads. We visited caves and saw aboriginal paintings before exploring The Olgas.
Sunday, February 11, 2007
A reminder of times past – Aussie 1
As I think I mentioned in an earlier post, Margaret has delved into her 1971 diary of “Secret Women’s Business” and written the following account of the Australian leg of the trip. I have added the odd comment, recalled from an ever diminishing memory vault:
By the time we arrived in Fremantle our group had increased to 19 for our travels around Australia in “Stan”, and the recently acquired Land Rover of Peter Ide and Lou Winwood. The new members of the group who were recruited on the good ship “Marconi” were Sandie and Chrissie (from England), Sarita, Alvah, Butch and Alan (from South Africa), Pat (from Rhodesia) and Mike (from Oz). And Beth joined us from Melbourne.
In Perth, the South Africans saw television for the first time and were amazed to see aboriginals on the buses and mostly white people on the streets.
Butch enlightened us with a new way of cleaning desert boots – put them in the washing machine – and a variety of ways that clothes can be pegged to dry on a clothes line.
Bicycles were hired on Rottnest Island with some interesting moments. The pedal on Marg’s bike fell off so someone gave her a dink, with others freewheeling their bikes. Beth, at one stage, could not brake so threw the bike to one side, and later Jean got two bikes caught together and broke some spokes. We sighted some native quokkas (a sort of cross between a rat and a wallaby).
Peter Ide recalls from his 1971 diary a few prices in Perth at that time:
Ticket to the cinema (to see Dad's Army) cost-$1-35 each.
A flash set for a camera-$8-00.
Ten rolls of Agfa 35-mm slide film-$43-60.
Tooth filling at a Perth dentist-$6-00.
Taxi ride-60 cents.
Long walk-sox-67 cents.
He also recalls: The first 747 Jumbo jet passed thru Perth on its maiden world flight on 3rd September 1971. The general feeling amongst those who witnessed the event was that "it was too large to be a success and would soon fall from the sky".
Leaving Perth we headed to Kalgoorlie, making a stop at a hotel in the town of Southern Cross for a drink. We decided to stay in the town for the night, and eventually found an abandoned hotel suitable for the purpose, after obtaining permission from the local policeman. It was Sarita’s birthday so a couple of cakes were consumed in celebration.
(Ed:It was here that we had one of those “Believe it or not” moments.
While staying at the Hotel Metropol in Kabul, Afghanistan in November 1970 we met an American couple who were traveling in a very distinctive Dodge motor caravan. Their vehicle was basically the same as the ex-ambulance we had driven from England, and as we were in the process of trying to sell the vehicle in Kabul, we sold some of the spare parts we were carrying to the Americans.
So, as dusk descended on the small Western Australian town of Southern Cross, out of the gloom appeared this surreal image of that very same Dodge motor caravan we had last seen in Kabul some 10 months earlier. Talk about gobsmacked! While we had traveled from India to East Africa, down to South Africa and across the Indian Ocean to Western Australia they had come via Thailand, the Indonesian islands, Darwin down to Perth and to a small outback town in WA - Believe it or not.)
In Kalgoorlie the area contained many holes from old mine shafts and we could hear blasting sounds from an operational mine. We had a tour of the overhead workings at one of the mines and a quick drive down Hay Street, well known for its brothels.
At Kambalda, where nickel was mined, the boys went down into a mine, however the girls had to be content with staying aboveground.
Headed south to Albany and visited the Whaling Station where we saw whales being brought in by boat, hauled up by winches then cut up by extremely sharp blades on poles like hockey sticks. Winches then pulled the blabber off. Most of us found it interesting though two people could not stand the smell (Ed: guilty your honour) and retreated to the vehicles.
Headed for timber country – Jarrah and Kauri forest. Stopped at the Gloucester Tree, 200 feet high with a fire lookout at the top. A number of adventurous people climbed to the top of the shaky ladder. Camped that night beside a school. With 18 or 19 people to devour the food it disappeared rapidly. You had to be quick, especially at lunchtimes, or else you missed out.
Margaret River was memorable not for the wine but for the delicious home made pies. John managed to demolish 4 as breakfast had been a few hours previous and the day was cold.
Back in Perth again we camped in the backyard of some New Zealand boys. Our night’s sleep was disturbed by Butch who decided to sing to us at 4.00am so we retaliated by hosing him down in the morning. We came to an arrangement with the caravan park, across the road, to use their showers. Four people headed off to the laundromat with everyone’s washing as we were all filthy, not having had a decent shower for a week.
We left Perth for the drive to Carnarvon where we met up with Rae who was flying in from New Zealand to meet up with us again, having returned home from Calcutta with hepatitis. The landrover arrived late in Carnavon as they had run out of fuel and had to use the petrol from the cooking stoves to complete the journey. Scenery on the way was gum trees, salt bush and windmills.
We stopped for three days at the Gascoyne River where we were visited by the Mr. Whippy’s icecream van and the local reporter who took photos of the group. Budgerigars and white cockatoos flew amongst the trees. Bought a whole sheep for a delicious barbeque, had a campfire and played the “Truth Game” which enlightened a few people about each other.
A few repairs were made on the vehicles and we had to wait an extra day as the road transport bringing some new springs for the landrover passed through Carnarvon - without stopping.
We set off for the long trek north but just after passing the Tropic of Capricorn the clutch went on ‘Stan” and we had to set up camp near Barradale Roadhouse, where fortunately, we were able to use their showers.
It was now warm enough to sleep in the open without tents.
John and Graham traveled back to Carnarvon to pick up a clutch plate being flown from Perth and returned to work on the vehicle. They also returned with a sheep which was killed and skinned while people took turns to wave branches over the carcass to keep the flies away. Later a few people cut the sheep up, roasted some, froze other parts in the fridge at the roadhouse and stewed chops to last us for a few meals.
By the time we arrived in Fremantle our group had increased to 19 for our travels around Australia in “Stan”, and the recently acquired Land Rover of Peter Ide and Lou Winwood. The new members of the group who were recruited on the good ship “Marconi” were Sandie and Chrissie (from England), Sarita, Alvah, Butch and Alan (from South Africa), Pat (from Rhodesia) and Mike (from Oz). And Beth joined us from Melbourne.
In Perth, the South Africans saw television for the first time and were amazed to see aboriginals on the buses and mostly white people on the streets.
Butch enlightened us with a new way of cleaning desert boots – put them in the washing machine – and a variety of ways that clothes can be pegged to dry on a clothes line.
Bicycles were hired on Rottnest Island with some interesting moments. The pedal on Marg’s bike fell off so someone gave her a dink, with others freewheeling their bikes. Beth, at one stage, could not brake so threw the bike to one side, and later Jean got two bikes caught together and broke some spokes. We sighted some native quokkas (a sort of cross between a rat and a wallaby).
Peter Ide recalls from his 1971 diary a few prices in Perth at that time:
Ticket to the cinema (to see Dad's Army) cost-$1-35 each.
A flash set for a camera-$8-00.
Ten rolls of Agfa 35-mm slide film-$43-60.
Tooth filling at a Perth dentist-$6-00.
Taxi ride-60 cents.
Long walk-sox-67 cents.
He also recalls: The first 747 Jumbo jet passed thru Perth on its maiden world flight on 3rd September 1971. The general feeling amongst those who witnessed the event was that "it was too large to be a success and would soon fall from the sky".
Leaving Perth we headed to Kalgoorlie, making a stop at a hotel in the town of Southern Cross for a drink. We decided to stay in the town for the night, and eventually found an abandoned hotel suitable for the purpose, after obtaining permission from the local policeman. It was Sarita’s birthday so a couple of cakes were consumed in celebration.
(Ed:It was here that we had one of those “Believe it or not” moments.
While staying at the Hotel Metropol in Kabul, Afghanistan in November 1970 we met an American couple who were traveling in a very distinctive Dodge motor caravan. Their vehicle was basically the same as the ex-ambulance we had driven from England, and as we were in the process of trying to sell the vehicle in Kabul, we sold some of the spare parts we were carrying to the Americans.
So, as dusk descended on the small Western Australian town of Southern Cross, out of the gloom appeared this surreal image of that very same Dodge motor caravan we had last seen in Kabul some 10 months earlier. Talk about gobsmacked! While we had traveled from India to East Africa, down to South Africa and across the Indian Ocean to Western Australia they had come via Thailand, the Indonesian islands, Darwin down to Perth and to a small outback town in WA - Believe it or not.)
In Kalgoorlie the area contained many holes from old mine shafts and we could hear blasting sounds from an operational mine. We had a tour of the overhead workings at one of the mines and a quick drive down Hay Street, well known for its brothels.
At Kambalda, where nickel was mined, the boys went down into a mine, however the girls had to be content with staying aboveground.
Headed south to Albany and visited the Whaling Station where we saw whales being brought in by boat, hauled up by winches then cut up by extremely sharp blades on poles like hockey sticks. Winches then pulled the blabber off. Most of us found it interesting though two people could not stand the smell (Ed: guilty your honour) and retreated to the vehicles.
Headed for timber country – Jarrah and Kauri forest. Stopped at the Gloucester Tree, 200 feet high with a fire lookout at the top. A number of adventurous people climbed to the top of the shaky ladder. Camped that night beside a school. With 18 or 19 people to devour the food it disappeared rapidly. You had to be quick, especially at lunchtimes, or else you missed out.
Margaret River was memorable not for the wine but for the delicious home made pies. John managed to demolish 4 as breakfast had been a few hours previous and the day was cold.
Back in Perth again we camped in the backyard of some New Zealand boys. Our night’s sleep was disturbed by Butch who decided to sing to us at 4.00am so we retaliated by hosing him down in the morning. We came to an arrangement with the caravan park, across the road, to use their showers. Four people headed off to the laundromat with everyone’s washing as we were all filthy, not having had a decent shower for a week.
We left Perth for the drive to Carnarvon where we met up with Rae who was flying in from New Zealand to meet up with us again, having returned home from Calcutta with hepatitis. The landrover arrived late in Carnavon as they had run out of fuel and had to use the petrol from the cooking stoves to complete the journey. Scenery on the way was gum trees, salt bush and windmills.
We stopped for three days at the Gascoyne River where we were visited by the Mr. Whippy’s icecream van and the local reporter who took photos of the group. Budgerigars and white cockatoos flew amongst the trees. Bought a whole sheep for a delicious barbeque, had a campfire and played the “Truth Game” which enlightened a few people about each other.
A few repairs were made on the vehicles and we had to wait an extra day as the road transport bringing some new springs for the landrover passed through Carnarvon - without stopping.
We set off for the long trek north but just after passing the Tropic of Capricorn the clutch went on ‘Stan” and we had to set up camp near Barradale Roadhouse, where fortunately, we were able to use their showers.
It was now warm enough to sleep in the open without tents.
John and Graham traveled back to Carnarvon to pick up a clutch plate being flown from Perth and returned to work on the vehicle. They also returned with a sheep which was killed and skinned while people took turns to wave branches over the carcass to keep the flies away. Later a few people cut the sheep up, roasted some, froze other parts in the fridge at the roadhouse and stewed chops to last us for a few meals.
